The Effect of Indoor Rock Climbing on Strength, Endurance, and Flexibility Characteristics in Novice Climbers

Document Type : Original Article

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University of Wisconsin-La Crosse, United States

Abstract

Purpose: This study was designed to evaluate changes in muscular strength, endurance, and flexibility in novice climbers following 7 weeks of indoor rock climbing and to determine if these responses are related to improvements in climbing performance. Method:  Climbers (CL:  n=14) and non-climbers (N-CL:  n=10) were assessed before and after the study period.  Tests included right and left handgrip and pinch grip strength, lat pull-down strength, arm-hang endurance, handgrip endurance, sit-and-reach flexibility, and total climbing time. The CL group completed a 7-week training protocol involving climbing 5-6 routes on an indoor climbing wall, 2x weekly.  Result: The CL group had significant improvements in handgrip strength (7%), pinch strength (9%), handgrip endurance (26%), arm hang time (35%), and climbing performance (50%).  There were no significant changes in the N-CL group. There were no significant correlations between improvement in climbing performance and change in muscle strength and endurance within CL.  Discussion: The climbing performance of novice climbers can be improved in a relatively short period of time.  However, the improvement is most likely due to improved climbing technique, than to improvements in muscular strength and endurance.    

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